Tuesday, June 6, 2017

The Magic of Barcelona

YES, BARCELONA IS MAGICAL ~

The words, pictures cannot describe, rattled in my head today because they truly cannot describe the wonder of Gaudí's buildings, the colors, the spires that look like someone decorated it with colored icing on a cake.  They can't describe the depth of the buildings or... That's just it.  It was distracting to see cranes above La Familia Sagrada, but my first sight of this glorious work of art when I turned around at the top of the stairs from the Metro was heart thumping.  It jumped out at me and snagged me by the throat.  My breath caught and I started grinning --- thinking of my granddaughter, Frankie Christina, and the longing she has to see this place.  I wish she'd been standing beside me to feel the thrill rumble through us.

I followed the crowds and backed up against a stone wall to gaze upward until my neck hurt.  People all around me were awestruck, as was I.  Tickets!  I needed one.  When I walked around the entire building to be told at 10:00 a.m. that tickets were available for 5:45 pm tonight, I was dismayed. For just a moment...because I have a lovely dinner date with friends at 7:30.  I will go back on Thursday at 2:30, because Thursday will be ALL Gaudí since my friend, Steven A. told me about Casa Mila.  And then I found Parque Güell.  On Thursday!

I found Casa Battló and just sat and gazed at the beauty from a bench among the trees and birds.  And Las Ramblas!  Trees arched above me in a canopy as I walked (rambled...) the length of this notable walkway where shops, cafes and people surrounded me.  I noticed there were a lot of loners like me, so I fit in with all the lovers, seniors, teens and sellers too.  Artists lined the paseo with pen and ink  or with colors.  Like Montemarte in Paris (only different).

 I was flagging by 11:30 and decided to have a sit down with coffee, but when I found a covered area where birds flit back and forth and people lingered at tables, I saw a woman with chocolate and churros.  Yes!  And it was my turn.

Afterward, I headed toward the Mediterranean where I knew a monument to Christopher Colon stood tall above the roundabout.  I couldn't stand back far enough without dancing in traffic to take a photo of the entire statue.  The immensity surprised me and I remembered there is also one in Huelva... he is everywhere in Spain.

By now, my legs were crying.  I needed a Metro station and food.  I found a great little cafe on a side street as I followed the Metro signs to take me back to my hotel.  They warmed up a sandwich for me para llevar (to go) and as I rounded another corner, I saw the signs to the Picasso museum.  Should I go?  I'd seen the exhibition in Madrid and how could any of them beat the Guernica?  Maybe I'd see the old man with the guitar painting on the front of the artwork for my book, Wine, Vines and Picasso?  Off I went.  And waited in line for 30 minutes but musicians had everyone dancing in line even though the sun was hot on our heads.  Once inside, there were so many Picasso paintings, my head ached and my eyes blurred.  No guitar man painting and by now my legs screamed louder and my bocadilla (sandwich) was getting cold.

After an early siesta, I was ready for my dinner date with Javier A. and his wife, Conchita.   He'd mentioned a nice long walk before dinner at Barrio Gótico near the 4 Gats (4 cats) Restaurant.   Even though I'd already walked nearly 13,000 steps today, I was in the magical mood of Barcelona once again.  And I won't even mention getting lost in the Metro...

When I first saw Javier and Concheta in the lobby of my hotel, we stumbled over our words a bit but with each minute, it was easier.  This is a man whom I've exchanged emails with over the years, a friend who has written books about Estepona history.  They were kind to invite me to dinner, but first a mini-tour of the antigua area of Barcelona that included two churches, a museum, narrow streets that made me feel like I was alone in another time warp.  He is evidently a photo aficionado because he kept taking photos of me in all the places they introduced me to... In and out of mazes and finally to the restaurant.

The Els Quatre Gats or less formally call the 4 Gats is a cafe that famously became a popular meeting place for famous artists throughout the modernist period, including Picasso and Casis.  The inside is decorated in time period, ornate and ageless; the food was good, live music and lots of noise, which made a struggling Spanish linguist have even more trouble than usual...

It was a delightful evening and on the way out, Conchita bought me a small poster of the popular painting that takes up one entire wall.  And once in the small alley-type street, she took a photo of me and Javier.



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